=========================================================================== Digest of articles on adjusting the stock Fender Tremolo =========================================================================== [Ed note: Sorry folks, I have lost Rob's full name, and I can only guess that Jimmy is Jim Collins, but an not sure. tjs.] RE: Interesting Floating Stock Trem > > I've got a basic Strat, one of the Mexican ones. Last night I decided it was > time to finally replace the strings that it came with. The new ones I put > on are .011, and it looks like the old ones were probably .010 or even .009. > So I guess it makes sense that the higher tension in the higher guage strings > would cause the tail of the tremolo to be lifted up higher off of the body of > the guitar. However, by the time I got the guitar back up to pitch, the > tremolo was sitting at about a 35 to 40 degree angle off of the body, which > effectively made the tremolo arm useless because it was hitting the pickguard. > So my question is, am I doing anything wrong here (I didn't touch the > springs or screws or anything)? Is it simply because of the higher guage > strings, and I should be using something lighter? > > Thanks for any and all help, > > Rob Rob, It actually isn't just a matter of tightening the screws in the spring cavity. First, you get a block of wood about 4mm thick -- about the thickness of cigar box wood. Place this underneath the bridge, but on top of the body. Loosen the guitar strings significantly, because you are going to tighten springs in the spring cavity enough to cause the bridge to clamp down on the block of wood. Now, tune the guitar to concert pitch. (This whole procedure really cannot be done without a tuner of some sort. You'll see why in a minute. It does not have to be an expensive one at all.) After tuning to concert pitch, the block of wood should still be clamped between the bridge plate and the body. Before you do anything else, it is a good idea to adjust the bridge height and intonation right now. Before I forget, make sure you do this with new strings. Okay, assuming that the guitar is now tuned to concert pitch, and the action/intonation are correct -- the strings have been properly stretched -- you can remove the block of wood. The guitar will rise in pitch. Don't touch the tuning pegs. Instead, with your electric tuner attached, gradually loosen the two screws in the spring cavity until the two outside strings -- the E strings -- return to concert pitch. What you have done at this point is to equalize the tension between the strings and the springs. When you use the whammy, it will tend to return to the original position of equilibrium. This will never be perfect, because there will always be friction somewhere, especially at the nut. In your case, switching from 9s to 11s, you may encounter that friction. Anyway, this setup will survive string changes provided you do not change string guage or string brand. There may be differing tensions among different brands even with the same guage. You should be able to get away with three springs, even with 11s, but if you find this isn't true, add a fourth spring, and repeat the entire procedure. This whole description presumes that you want your bridge to float; that is, you can pull up as well as push down. If this is what you want, go for it. Be warned that fresh strings are a must with this setup. With a floating bridge, when one string breaks, the equilibrium is lost, and the guitar goes hopelessly out of tune. To some people, this is not acceptable, so they put on five springs, and crank the screws down so that the bridge is flat. The whammy takes some real effort to move in this case. Good luck with it. Jimmy --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tim, No, I didn't invent this. It is actually in the owner's manual that comes with Fender guitars -- at least the American-made versions. However, very often, this choice little manual -- very little -- never actually makes it to the purchaser. New Fenders come set up this way from the factory. It is surprising how many folks -- dealers included -- who don't know about this. I knew one dealer who thought this was a mistake. He actually wanted to crank all the bridges down. Here's another one for you. Did you know there is supposed to be a little stiff spring in the whammy bar screw hole? This is to help hold it in a set position so you don't have to crank down. If you remove the bar, the spring will fall out. Ask a dealer for one of these springs and he'll look at you like you just got off the boat. Most Fender Strat cases allow you to close the case with the bar still attached, provided you point the bar down to the corner of the case. This way, you don't lose the spring. The manual tells you this, but since many folks don't get the manual, they never even know there is a spring there. Back to the whammy bar. Some folks feel there is a loss of tonal quality if the bridge is set up to float. I am one of these people. Set the bridge up so that it is anchored firmly on the body and you should notice an increase in sustain, and possibly a slightly meatier tone. Some folks don't notice this, but I think it is true. However, I like to use the bar -- I'm talking polite little half-step dips, not full-on dive bombs -- and I don't like the feel of the bridge when it is not set up to float. So, I put up with the difference in tone. Floating bridges also make life interesting when doing double-stop bends, but a perfect life would be perfectly boring. That's probably why the serious multi-string benders gravitate towards Telecasters. Another tip, this one from the pages of GP. A little graphite powder on the threads of the whammy, held in place with a little base grease is a cool idea. Jimmy --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Jul 93 09:39:04 PDT From: eastwood@sybase.com (David Eastwood) To: tjs@eecs.umich.edu (tim stanley) Subject: Re: Guitar restringing question |> Great! I learned guitar on a Gibson SG so I nearly never use the |> whammy on my Squire. Sort of feel like I don't really know what to do |> with it. In fact, right now, the bar is not even on the guitar. |> Nevertheless, I have a few questions: |> |> 1) Is this how the Fender bridge is designed to be used - i.e., |> floating vs. is this something interesting you have discovered? I |> always thought the bridge was intended to sit flat on the body and |> only permit lowering notes, not raising notes. |> Yes, they are designed to float - but lots of people settle for the compromise you mention, largely because of the problems with tuning that it helps you avoid. Bear in mind, though, one thing that no-one has mentioned up to now - all those springs and chunks of metal in the back of a Strat affect the *sound*. I learnt this recently with my Peavey Strat copy - I had tightened the bridge down completely, all the screws, four springs done up tight, and a block of oak between the back of the spring block and the body. Believe me, the only way that bridge would move, was with a crowbar :-) Then I played a *real* Strat, with a floating bridge, and it was a religious experience - it goes 'sproing' in a way only a Strat can, and I realized how dull mine sounded. So, I removed the block, and readjusted the bridge so that it's just touching the body; no tuning problems, but the sound is immeasurably better, and has some of that piano-like quality that only a Strat (or clone thereof) can achieve. |> 2) Does anyone else out there do this sort of thing? Oh yes, and much worse :-) That's one of the reasons I'm partial to cheap guitars - I have no qualms about experimenting. My $239 Peavey Predator is one of the most satisfying instruments I've ever owned, largely because of the work I've done on it. It was a good basic instrument to start with - now it's very nice indeed! David Eastwood / Sybase Inc., Emeryville, CA / eastwood@sybase.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Newsgroups: alt.guitar Subject: Re: Staying in Tune w/o a Floating Tremolo Date: 19 Aug 93 18:10:56 +1200 Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand In article <1993Aug19.003001.24585@newstand.syr.edu>, davidkim@erc.cat.syr.edu (David Kim) writes: > With all this discussion about tuning a floating tremolo, my guitar has only > a simple lever bridge that goes out of tune (by a lot!) with just simple vibrato. My question is: is there anything I can do to make it less prone to go out of > tune? I understand that Hendrix didn't have any of the bridge technology of BUT... I've got a stratclone with yer bog standard 6-screw trem bridge, and I can keep it in tune with this simple trick (if you do this already then sorry). When you tune up, wham the bar down gently each time you make an adjustment to the tuning. This will mean that when you are finished, the guitar will be in tune every time you dip the trem and let it come up a bit. Every time you do a massive bend, heavy chord or whatever, just smack that bar and it'll come back fine! This sounds a bit limiting when I write it down, but I've been doing this for several years with no problems - it just becomes a part of your style. Other things: If you play light or medium (i.e. not REAL heavy) strings, you don't need all 6 screws in the front of the bridge. I've got four in now, and that helps the stability a lot and makes less noise. I've filed smooth the saddles where the string crosses so it can't bind so much (this needs doing about every 6 months or so) and also smoothed off the point where the string emerges from the bridge plate and bends sharply towards the saddle. (That's a tip from SRV's guitar tech, and a good one. At the other end of things, make sure the string isn't binding when it goes through the nut (I spray silicone on it through a piece of card with a slot cut in it (so the horrible stuff doesn't go everywhere) and make sure you don't wind too much string onto the post (I get away with about 2 turns on the thin strings and about 1 on the heavy ones). --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: julian@waikato.ac.nz Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar Subject: Re: Getting strat whammy to work Date: 8 Sep 93 19:12:13 +1200 Organization: University of Waikato, Hamilton, New Zealand In article <1993Sep7.225411.25614@seagoon.newcastle.edu.au>, eerjd@tesla.newcastle.edu.au (Robert Davy) writes: > julian@waikato.ac.nz wrote: > > : The big hint (if you don't already know it) is to tune your guitar so that it > : always comes back into tune when you wham the trem down and let it go (or up > : but I like down better). This gives the trem a reference point to return to > : every time and gets rid of that last little bit of instability. > I don't quite understand what you are getting at here. Could you explain in > more detail. How can "tuning the guitar" help to keep the guitar in tune, > apart from doing it every time you hit the bar? Sorry, maybe I didn't make it clear. When you tune the guitar (once, the first time etc.) wham the bar down and let it rise after each tuning. This equalises the slight differences in string tension between the two sections of string (tuner to nut and nut to bridge) and gives you a stable reference to return to. If you don't do this (say you tune a string up and don't drop the bar) when you do use the trem it won't come back in tune. Once the guitar is in tune, it's pretty hard to make it go out (I assure you, I've done this for several years now). If you do a big bend and the string goes flat, just wham the bar and it's back again. Bye Julian --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: scowell@Mr-Hyde.aoc.nrao.edu (Steve Cowell) Subject: Re: Loose whammy Organization: National Radio Astronomy Observatory, Socorro NM Date: Tue, 25 Jan 94 17:30:51 GMT Everyone with "trem play" try putting wadded-up rubber band in the bottom of the screw hole. -- Steve..... if it's broke, fix it....... --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: dnjohans@cisco.com (Dave Johansen) Newsgroups: alt.guitar Subject: Re: Stratocaster tremelo system Date: 10 Mar 1994 00:15:58 GMT Organization: cisco Systems, Incorporated This is a common thread that has been addressed on many occasions But I've never seen any "correct" answer.. Being a Strat player for the last 20+ years I've heard every "theory" that's come down the pike.. I will give you what works for me.. (Many ideas stolen from Dan Erlewine, and various repair persons) First off I will address the springs in the back of the guitar I use three connected to the 1st 3rd and 5th holes on the inertia block. ( the block connected to the tailpiece ) and the tops of the springs are attached to the 2nd 3rd and 4th hooks on the grappling hook thingy that has the two BIG wood screws going into the body.. Now as far as tailpiece tension, I adjust it flat against the body and retune the guitar to "normal" pitch (what ever that is for you) E, Eb, Qbb what ever.. I depress the arm up everso slightly and put a business card under the tailpiece so it stays there.. If you drop the arm of course it will drop out. Now I adjust the spring tension in the back a half turn for each BIG screw (see above) and retune until the card drops out.. (this is a process that you will repeat until the card drops out) What you should end up with a very small clearance between the back of the tail piece and the surface of the guitar ( maybe .010").. What I do next is lift the six screws on the front of the tail piece up until the whole tail piece is flat or the back of the tail piece is slightly dipped back into the guitar.. then I give a 1/4 turn to the 2nd 3rd 4th and 5th screws so it starts to work more like a knife edge type tailpiece. What I am trying to accomplish is to keep the tail piece rear from pulling up radically when the strings are bent (another problem, but related to the tremelo prob.) You can get really anal retentive and polish the screw holes on the tail piece, but I'm not sure that really buys you anything.. Now on to the headstock... I have a bone nut which seems to help a bit with the binding problems.. The nut grooves are about .001 over size from the string gauge that I use and the grooves are flared, opening towards the headstock. Also the grooves are flattened on the bottom to help keep the string from binding in the groove. I sometimes use a pencil lead to lubricate the nut grooves as well. (See Dan Erlewine's book Guitar Player Repair Guide). I have used the regular string trees that are supplied with the strats, but I now use a roller tree assembly that is supplied by Allparts (Katy, TX). I also only have maybe two wraps around the tuning pegs to keep the strings from grabbing each other like little vises when the trem is depressed.... I hope this bit of drivel is of some help to you all out there..... -dnjohans@cisco.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: tcrachal@fiat.gslis.utexas.edu (Traci Rachal) Newsgroups: alt.guitar Subject: Re: Advice on learning to use "whammy" Date: 25 Oct 1994 04:33:05 GMT Organization: The University of Texas at Austin, Austin, Texas tim stanley (tjs@eecs.umich.edu) wrote: > In article <38hauj$77l@tadpole.fc.hp.com> markg@fc.hp.com (Mark Gonzales) writes: > I've played guitar for years but have never had a > guitar with a "whammy" until I recently purchased > a strat. I've learn to incorporate it into a few > licks, mostly as vibrato on a sustained note. The > ... > Anyway, I would like to learn to use it to do > "dives" (I think that what you whammy-meisters > call them) it would seem obvious, just play a > note and bend the bar down, right? well, all > I get is a groan and loose strings. I know this > sounds stupid but I'm a "whammy-newbie". > I second the question! I have played since about 1974/5. I got my > first whamified guitar in late 1990. I have never really felt like > it was useful for me. Whasup? > T ############################### I think the best bar-influence is Allan Holdsworth...no one uses the bar as tastefully. PatMcTCR --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: mloppnow@gmuvax.gmu.edu (NAME "--==> Animalic! <==--") Newsgroups: alt.guitar Subject: Re: Advice on learning to use "whammy" Date: 25 Oct 94 01:55:38 -0500 Organization: George Mason University, Fairfax, VA. In article , tjs@eecs.umich.edu (tim stanley) writes: > > In article <38hauj$77l@tadpole.fc.hp.com> markg@fc.hp.com (Mark Gonzales) writes: > > I've played guitar for years but have never had a > guitar with a "whammy" until I recently purchased > a strat. I've learn to incorporate it into a few > licks, mostly as vibrato on a sustained note. The > ... > Anyway, I would like to learn to use it to do > "dives" (I think that what you whammy-meisters > call them) it would seem obvious, just play a > note and bend the bar down, right? well, all > I get is a groan and loose strings. I know this > sounds stupid but I'm a "whammy-newbie". > > I second the question! I have played since about 1974/5. I got my > first whamified guitar in late 1990. I have never really felt like > it was useful for me. Whasup? > > T I'm gonna put a little disclaimer here before I char myself with possible flames: Whammy theatrics are not everyone's cup-o-tea. There are many purists who feel that a whammy is not necessary to expressing one's emotions and feelings through the guitar. (I'm creating these phrases as I go so bear with me.) A whammy bar is not a very melodic effect and some feel that others use it because of lack of more difficult technique in other areas. On to development of whammy technique... The most important concern of mine in addressing your problem is the fact that you mentioned that you have a strat. If you try to pull off Vai-type theatrics without a floating/double-locking whammy, not only are you gonna have serious tuning probs, you just aren't gonna be able to pull it off. By floating/double-locking, I mean that the bridge is free to pivot (usually on two screws, if you have more than two screws, you probably don't have the ability to pull off the more extreme whang-bar theatrics... unless you have one of those Kahlers...) And that the string locks at the headstock somewhere to keep the guitar from going outta tune (double locking means it also locks at the bridge, but there are some systems that only lock at the nut or tuner that stay in tune pretty well.) There are a small # of guitars that have whang capabilities that don't fall into the categories that I mentioned, but I'm not a dealer of 'em all and can't address 'em all... Without the proper equipment, you are gonna have troubles developing your technique to its fullest potential. Before addressing possible tricks, I'm gonna mention technique development: I have had the most development from doing one (and both) of two things: 1) Listening to other players (watching helps too!) I figure if you wanna develop your whammy technique, you've probably heard something that you thought was kool that you wanna incorporate. Just from listening, take a min or two to try to figure out what the guy was doing. (as you develop your technique more, this will become easier.) Legendary guitarists for dives/etc. are a) Eddie Van Halen (God) Check out just about any album. Kool trem work on "Get Up", "I'll Wait", "Eruption", etc... b) Steve Vai Same, chek out just about any album. Especially check out the guitar duel at the end of the movie "Crossroads" w/ Ralph Maccio (sp?) Steve can be a little theatrical at times... Don't try this too often at home kiddies, I'm pretty sure a nasty crack in one of my strats came from thinking that supporting my guitar by only the Wang-bar was kool... c) Brad Gillis (sp?) I'm actually not super familiar with his work aside from select Night Ranger songs. At one point early in his career, he decided to try to make "The Bar" his schtick. He's a classic example but not one of my faves. (I guess his solo album is pretty good tho...) there's TONS more but these warranted the most mention 2) Sit down w/ your guitar and experiment. Don't be in a rush. Try doing something a little different. As an example, even though the noise you got >from your strings flapping around wasn't what you had in mind, that effect has benefits all in itself. Now (finally) onto a coupla actual techniques: 1) hit a harmonic (put your finger directly above the 7th fret and just touch the string when striking it with your pick instead of actually fretting the note - scuse me if I'm being a little basic, but I have no clue of the level of development of the person reading this and I also wanna have this benefit everyone whe might be interested.) after the harmonic sounds, let it ring for a bit, then gradually push down on the bar... *Ooooooooh* 2) hit the harmonic and gradually start vibrating it with the bar becoming more extreme in your vibrations. In other words keep increasing the distance that you are moving the bar while doing it faster... *wahwahwahwah* 3) push down on the bar, hit the harmonic, and return the bar to its natural position... *whaaaaaaap* (try this from different starting positions.) 4) use the effect that you mentioned: "bottom out" the strings (get 'em all slack) and strum 'em... That's enuf for now (whew!) gotta run, any ??'s send me some mail, and I'll try to help ya. anyone else feel free to comment! -Matt "Animalic" --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Newsgroups: alt.guitar From: will@iglou.iglou.com (William M. Willis) Subject: Re: Advice on learning to use "whammy" Organization: IgLou Internet Services tim stanley (tjs@eecs.umich.edu) wrote: : In article <38hauj$77l@tadpole.fc.hp.com> markg@fc.hp.com (Mark Gonzales) writes: : Anyway, I would like to learn to use it to do : "dives" (I think that what you whammy-meisters : call them) it would seem obvious, just play a : note and bend the bar down, right? well, all : I get is a groan and loose strings. I know this : sounds stupid but I'm a "whammy-newbie". : I second the question! I have played since about 1974/5. I got my : first whamified guitar in late 1990. I have never really felt like : it was useful for me. Whasup? First off it takes LOTS of practice to get to where you can do controlled pitch dives ala Steve Vai, or Allan Holdsworth, or Yngwie Malmsteen. If you are diving or raising one note you need to try to mute the other strings so you don't get that loose string out of tune junk going. I guess I mute with my fretting hand. Depending which string I'm diving on I mute differently. Sometimes I'll hang my thumb over the top to kill the bass strings while taking care of the treble strings with my fingers from underneath, sometimes it's all from underneath with my free fingers. Another thing to remember is that you don't have to move the bar very far to get results. A "normal" full step bend is a fairly slight dip with the bar. You don't need to smack the bar against the body to do good dives :) I used to be a whammy monster, used it all the time for all kinds of things, but now I more or less use it for little effects. Here's a couple ...mostly borrowed from other players. 1. Turn the bar backwards so that it is parallel with the strings but facing away from the neck. play a note or chord (better with power chords) and press the bar down (will RAISE the pitch of the note) and quickly release. You want to let the bar snap back. It will vibrate like a ruler or something and create a cool warbling effect. It also works in reverse by raising the bar (which lowers the pitch) and letting go. Obviously this is an effect for floating whammies. 2. Crank the distortion and gain, hit a pinch harmonic and dive (or raise?) quickly, muting all strings while you move the bar and cut off the note when it reaches the destination. As an alternative you can manipulate the bar while the harmonic sounds out. 3. One of my favorites, sort of a vibrato effect ...play a chord or a note and lightly tap the bar down a few times in succession. You want to create little dips but you don't want the dip to go down too far. I find this works best on clean tones, and is killer in combination with delay and reverb. It's a more subtle use of the bar. If anyone else has some favorite uses of the whammy bar please go ahead and post them. I only put 3 since I'm not sure if anyone really cares :) <--Will--> -- Will Willis | Fender American Standard Stratocaster | arctic white, maple freboard, wanting Texas Specials will@iglou.com | Washburn G5 (strat shaped) blue w/black crackle body will@dconcepts.com | rosewood w/Sharktooth fretboard, HSS pu, floyd rose --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: jizietz@vt.edu (jizietz) Newsgroups: alt.guitar Subject: Re: Advice on learning to use "whammy" Date: 25 Oct 1994 16:59:20 GMT Organization: Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, Virginia In article , John Kim says: Here's a cool one: Started by Joe Satriani, it's called "Lizard Donw the Neck" Fret a note and start sliding up the neck. Depress the bar and keep the approximate pitch. This one take a lot of practice but is way cool! Listen to Sarch's surfing w/ the Alien jason z --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From plyall@netcom.com Tue Mar 7 12:22:49 1995 Newsgroups: alt.guitar From: plyall@netcom.com (Pete Lyall) Subject: Re: Tremolo and Tremsetter Organization: NETCOM On-line Communication Services (408 261-4700 guest) Anders R. Mohn (andmo@sug.hiagder.no) wrote: : Since there's been so much discussion on tremolos an stability and staying-in-tune : lately: With my Strat, I got a "Hipshot Tremsetter". I haven't installed it : yet, because I haven't had the time to sit down and be accurate. : Q: Do I need it ..? Is it worth the time to install it ..? : Thanx, Tremsetters are fabulous! They may take a little bit of incremental tweaking to get set right for your guitar, but I _LOVE_ mine (I use two of them - in separate guitars, of course)... Pete Lyall --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Steve DeMott Newsgroups: alt.guitar Subject: Re: Tremolo and Tremsetter Date: Mon, 6 Mar 95 21:59:37 -0500 Organization: Delphi (info@delphi.com email, 800-695-4005 voice) I must say I love the tremsetter. I have one in my '62 strat and I feel it stays in tune better than any Floyd Rose I've ever owned. (of course I have sperzel locking tuners on the guitar also) Steve DeMott demott@delphi.com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subject: tremsetter To: tjs@eecs.umich.edu Date: Wed, 8 Mar 95 14:55:38 MST From: "Steve Lau" Fell free to edit this... this is a how-to on adjusting a tremsetter, not on how to install it. If you order one, installation instructions are included... 0) Take out the tremsetter. 1) Set up your trem to the desired floating position, and get the guitar in tune, then recheck the floating position. 2) Set the length of the tremsetter rod so that the rod length adjuster is touching the tremsetter tube end with the rod in the spring hole of the trem block. Shorten this length by 1/32". Tighten the allan screw of the rod length adjuster. 3) Take the tremsetter rod out of the trem block spring hole. 4) Loosen the spring claw screws so that the trem block moves back about 1/16". 5) Put the tremsetter rod back into the string hole of the trem block. 6) Test the trem. Dive and release gently, and you should feel the trem "lock" back into a neutral position. If not, turn the nylon thumbscrew on the tremsetter to tighten the tremsetter spring. 7) Raise the trem and release gently, and you should also feel the trem lock back into a neutral position. If not, loosen the spring claw screws a 1/4 of a turn at a time and test until it "locks". 8) Test again for a neutral position "lock" after diving. Test for trem stability whil bending. Bend strings aggressively. If the trem rises, thighten the tremsetter thumbscrew to tighten the tremsetter spring. 9) Repeat steps 6) through 8) until the trem is as stable as you desire. Hope can understand the instructions... they do work, I've just adjusted one while writing the instructions to make sure they're okay. -- Stephen Lau | Takamine EF-341-EC The University of Calgary | Ovation CC-63 Department of Chemistry | Fender Floyd Rose Stnd Strat email: sywlau@acs.ucalgary.ca | Ibanez SoundGear SR-400 From: jackb@uiuc.edu (Jack Brighton) Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar Subject: Re: Tremsetter Date: Wed, 14 Jun 1995 18:14:31 GMT Organization: WILL AM/FM/TV, PBS, University of Illinois In article trev@quads.uchicago.edu (Maggie Trevor) writes: >From: trev@quads.uchicago.edu (Maggie Trevor) >Subject: Tremsetter >Date: Tue, 13 Jun 1995 21:36:07 GMT >Has anybody tried the Hipshot Tremsetter on their Strat? >Are they effective at stabilizing the tremolo? I'm thinking >of putting one on my Mexistrat, along with a graphite nut, as >two relatively cheap, but effective upgrades. Properly adjusted, it will stabilize your trem, meaning that it will return to the _zero position_ more reliably. It will also enable you to bend one string without the others going flat, and IMHO it improves sustain and eliminates tremelo _warble_. The trade-off is it makes your trem arm feel stiff and unresponsive. I believe the trade-off is worth it, and you just have to adjust the Tremsetter to the proper balance for your playing style. Other cheap, effective upgrades: Locking tuners (well, not real cheap); roller nut (not graphite); and Graph Tech bridge saddles (the best $25 I ever spent). Others will disagree, but that's my $.02.... Jack Brighton Phone: (217) 333-0850 Associate Producer, Focus 580 FAX: (217) 333-7151 WILL-AM-580 Internet: jackb@uiuc.edu University of Illinois Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com From: sefstrat@aol.com (SEFSTRAT) Subject: Re: OPINIONS: Tremsetter in a Strat Date: 1 Mar 1997 14:09:21 GMT <> The others are right. They DO work great, and stay in adjustment well, ONCE you set it up right. But there are tricks to setting them up. I have one in my Ultra, and I love it. It doesn;t completely stop the "bend one and the other goes flat" business, but it cuts it WAY down, to a pretty acceptable level...a good compromise. Fender will mail you tips on setting the thing up right, with diagrams..for free. Call 602-596-9690, ask for the guitar techs (Phil or Alex). They'll send it to you. Steve SEFSTRAT@AOL.com Newsgroups: rec.music.makers.guitar Organization: AOL http://www.aol.com From: stuam@aol.com (STU AM) Subject: Re: Bridge Buzz and the Jaguar Date: 28 Feb 1997 03:06:13 GMT ok, you could wrap the bridge posts in a small amount of aluminum foil or masking tape, and re-insert them and see if they still 'rock' back and forth and/or buzz or rattle. also you might dis-assemble the bridge saddles and make sure the springs are tight by pulling them outwards to make them slightly longer so they will not vibrate or rattle. you can also put a drop of Lok-Tite on the small allen screws that raise and lower the bridge posts so they wont vibrate loose/lower. it also seems to me that jags and jazzmasters and for that matter most fenders with this style of bridge (mustangs and duosonics included) operate better with heavier strings on them. i have .012's on my jag with a wound G string. very little rattle or buzz. let me know how this works. then play on........ stu STUAM@aol.com